When countries locked down because of COVID-19, thousands of cruisers were stranded. We hear some of their storiesJennifer and Peter Bernard’s yacht Steel Sapphire moored at Uligan, Maldives. Photo: Peter BernardWhen the world abruptly locked down in March, many cruisers were caught out, and soon to be trapped. Hundreds, at least, were on passage at the time, and were forced to run between islands, or countries as the door was shut.
\nSome, such as those taking part in the World ARC and on a 3,000-mile passage (the longest on the tradewinds circumnavigation route) between the Galapagos and Marquesas Islands, found themselves temporarily refugees, with nowhere to go.
\nMany had to add more miles to what had already been a long voyage and were low on water, fuel, supplies then moved on again from the next country. Others were summarily ejected, and to this date find themselves liable to be moved on at short notice, or now perilously out of step with seasonal winds.
\nIn some countries, for example St Lucia, those arriving were put in quarantine and unable to clear in. A month later, they were still not being permitted out of quarantine.
\nApproaching storms
\nOthers were on passage back across the Atlantic to Europe and, according to Sue Richards, who runs the cruising website Noonsite (a hugely valuable resource for world cruisers, and a mine of exchanged information in the crisis), some are having to give up the dream altogether. Those who have sold everything to move on board, or are funding themselves through rental property, now found themselves with no income and rising costs, and perhaps stuck in a marina.
\n\u201cThere is also a lot of fear \u2013 of being stuck in a place where the hurricane season or cyclone season is looming, and where they can\u2019t get to a safe port or to haul out the boat, or even to fly home while there were flights out,\u201d says Richards. \u201cThe hurricane season starts on 1 June and people need to get out of there.
\n\u201cWorking with the Ocean Cruising Club, we pulled together a list of refuge ports in the Atlantic, Mediterranean and northern Europe for boats needing to get across the Atlantic to repatriate to Europe. Grenada, Trinidad and the BVIs are working towards finding solutions for owners that want to haul their boats for the hurricane season.\u201d
\nArticle continues below\u2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\tCoronavirus and sailing: How COVID-19 will change the way we sail<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\tLooking north from the seafront at Cowes this April, you\u2019d have seen the Solent as no-one in living memory has\u2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\tRound-the-world sailors race for landfall as South Pacific begins coronavirus lockdown<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\tPushing off from the Galapagos Islands 3 weeks ago, the coronavirus was only starting to affect Europe. The first villages\u2026<\/p>\n
Cruising clubs and organisations such the Ocean Cruising Club, Seven Seas Cruising Association, Cruising Association, the Cruising Club of America and the Royal Cruising Club all pulled together, with Salty Dawg rallies and World Cruising Club looking after those crews in their events.
\nWhat will coronavirus mean for cruising in the next few years? With a heightened sense of instability, some will certainly choose to stick closer to home. It may change the view of living on board as offering a greater freedom than on land. There could be a boost for organised events, where a team ashore is responsible for fixing and negotiating solutions to any unforeseeable problems.
\nBut hopefully many will take their chances and go. There is always something to worry about. World economies are changing, there may be a different geopolitical order, we may look back at how COVID-19 was a watershed \u2013 who knows? But, as the saying goes, time is the only thing we really own, and it is finite.
\nThe water is crystal clear, but the future for long-distance cruisers was not. Photo: Peter Bernard
\nTrapped in paradise
\nBy Jennifer and Peter Bernard
\n\u201cWhiskey Jack, Whiskey Jack, this is Uligan Coastguard.\u201d We\u2019re immediately on high alert. The coastguard is calling the yacht anchored right next to us.
\n\u201cCoastguard, this is Whiskey Jack. Go ahead.\u201d
\n\u201cWhiskey Jack, this is Uligan Coastguard. We suggest you raise anchor and leave the Maldives, and find another country to go to.\u201d
\nAnd there it is. The call we\u2019ve been dreading for the past four weeks. With those 16 words, our worst fears have become real.
\nImmediately, the WhatsApp group that we set up with the other 11 boats in our anchorage in March starts pinging.
\n\u201cDid you hear that?\u201d
\n\u201cDid I just hear what I thought I did?\u201d
\n\u201cDoes that mean all of us?\u201d
\nClearly, everyone is listening in. And we all know the implications: our world is about to be turned upside down.
\nWhere we are at
\nIt\u2019s May and we are anchored in Uligan, the second-most northern island in the Maldives. We left Sydney in July 2018 to begin a five-year circumnavigation and sailed through south-east Asia visiting Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand and Sri Lanka before arriving here in the Maldives in early March.
\nOur plan for 2020 was to follow the weather systems through the Indian Ocean, travelling southwards as the year progressed and arriving in South Africa around October.
\nWhen we left Sri Lanka in early March, word of the coronavirus was on everyone\u2019s lips, but the term COVID-19 had barely entered public consciousness, and \u2018social distancing\u2019 was a phrase used by people who didn\u2019t like Facebook and Instagram.
\nPeter and Jennifer Bernard left Sydney in July 2018 on a five-year circumnavigation in their Jarrett 50 Steel Sapphire
\nWe checked with our agent in the Maldives but were reassured that all was good, and we would be welcome. It was a six-day passage during which we had no internet, so we were shocked by how much the global situation had deteriorated by the time we arrived on 12 March.
\nTwo days after we arrived, the Maldives shut its borders, and we were told it might be a week or two until our cruising permit was issued, while the government worked out their approach to the emerging threat. By this point 12 boats were waiting in the anchorage with us. 55 days later, we were still there.
\nWe were required to shelter at the current anchorage, and initially were not allowed ashore at Uligan or anywhere else in the Maldives. After a few weeks, we were given access to a small, uninhabited island five miles from Uligan for exercise, which significantly improved morale.
\nAllowed ashore for exercise on an uninhabited island. Photo: Leslie Godfrey
\nWe were allowed to visit each other on our yachts, we could swim and snorkel among beautiful coral, and receive occasional visits from turtles, dolphins and manta rays. These are wonderful privileges, especially compared to some of our fellow cruisers locked down elsewhere in the world.
\nIn the meantime, we were painfully aware of the dramatic impact COVID-19 has had on just about everyone on the planet. We consumed the news hungrily each day and feared for our friends and family who were on the front line: death or severe illness; economic meltdown; loss of personal income; future instability; and massive disruption to daily life.
\nAnd at times we felt guilty, as they wrote to us about lockdown and its impact. \u201cTalk about the perfect place to practice social distancing,\u201d they\u2019d say. \u201cI wish I could be sitting on a yacht, sipping cocktails watching the sunset, with no risk of contracting the virus.\u201d But the truth was less romantic.
\nA precarious situation
\nLike many bluewater cruisers right now, our short- to medium-term future is fraught with high levels of stress, anxiety and danger. We have no home to shelter in, at least not in the conventional sense. We have limited supplies of food, fuel and water, no shops to visit to resupply, and limited access to land for exercise.
\nWe\u2019re subject to the vagaries of the weather, with storms, cyclones and worse and, with the south-west monsoon setting in, we can expect our anchorage to become progressively less comfortable. With an average height of less than 3m above water, the Maldives is not exactly famed for its secure anchorages to ride out storms. We\u2019re strangers in a strange land, and know the locals are struggling. From social media we see some are fearful that crews from the yachts are carrying the virus to their homes or are consuming their scarce resources.
\nUnderpinning everything is a persistent dread \u2013 how will we cope when (not if) our engine, watermaker or other critical system breaks down and we have no access to spare parts or replacements? Above all, each day is consumed by the thought of what happens if we are asked to leave, while every other country\u2019s borders are closed and being defended by Navy gunships.
\nA Maldivian Coast Guard cutter keeps an eye on the cruiser fleet. Photo: Leslie Godfrey
\nThe Maldivian authorities have been helpful, providing regular supplies of basic groceries and diesel, and so the plan had been to sit out the worst of the coronavirus in Uligan, and then resume our onwards journey when borders reopened. But after a period of stability and low infection rates, the virus began to spread rapidly through the Maldives, and this call from the coastguard is clear evidence that the authorities want us to move on.
\nWhat are our options? We follow up with our agent, and he confirms that the authorities have asked all foreign yachts in the Maldives to prepare for emergency departure if the situation continues to deteriorate. Although there are two marinas further south, they are currently closed due to the virus \u2013 the authorities have so far been resolute that we cannot move our yacht there and fly home.
\nA couple of cruisers have chosen to sail home, no matter how long and unsafe the journey, hoping to take advantage of an assumed willingness of each country they pass to top them up with fuel and provisions. While a \u2018short hop\u2019 strategy like that might work if you\u2019re in the Mediterranean and trying to sail back to the UK, for example, it\u2019s more difficult in the Indian Ocean due to the huge distances and seasonal dangers to the weather.
\nFor us, sailing directly home to Australia would be particularly challenging. The direct route via Christmas Island and Darwin is over 4,000 miles against the prevailing winds and currents. In fact, the Indian Ocean Cruising Guide does not even include a direct route from Maldives to Australia \u2013 instead the recommendation is to sail down the east African coast, turn left at Cape Town and then sail east to Fremantle and Sydney, turning it into an 8,500 mile non-stop passage in some of the most treacherous waters in the world.
\nWhile both options are technically feasible, they\u2019re not passages I\u2019d undertake willingly. I think they pose too much risk to our vessel and crew, especially considering there\u2019d be nowhere to refuel or reprovision along the way, and no bail-out ports if serious problems arose.
\nSo as we contemplate being asked to leave Maldives imminently, our criteria for finding an alternative are:
\nIs the journey there viable and safe from a sailing perspective?
\nIs the border open and the country itself safe to be in?
\nIf the border is not open, are there still some kind of medium-long term options there (either shelter in place on our boat for several months, or facilities to leave the boat and fly home)?
\nEvery country that borders the Indian Ocean fails test No 2. Although Tanzania\u2019s border remains open, their prime minister prefers to tackle COVID-19 through the use of onions, garlic and prayer rather than social distancing and lockdowns. Sadly, that means for us it fails the second part of the test. It\u2019s also 1,700 miles away, mostly upwind, with very limited facilities for yachts of our size, making tests 1 and 3 marginal at best.
\nBetween April and October, the south-west monsoon in the northern Indian Ocean means that the safest option for us is to sail to Malaysia or Thailand. Both countries have the facilities to store yachts like ours, meaning they could also pass test 3. Unfortunately both are in lockdown, and have stated that while they will refuel yachts, they will compel them to keep moving, and they will not be allowed to shelter in place.
\nDespite this, if we are formally asked to leave, our best option currently seems to be to set out on the 1,800-mile passage from Uligan to Malaysia, knowing it will take 15-20 days at this time of year. Throughout the journey, we will have no insight into what awaits us.
\nChallenged by the Malaysian Navy, with guns pointed at us? Refuelled and moved on? And if so, to where? And in what mental state will we be as we embark on the next passage, again without knowledge of what awaits us at the other end? On the other hand, if the Maldives does allow us to stay here until our visa expires, it buys us some time to try and make the best\u00a0 decision we can about where to go.
\nTo help with answers to these questions, we\u2019ve reached out to our embassy, both in Malaysia and Sri Lanka. While they are trying to be helpful, they are simply not geared up to deal with our tiny niche, and so the initial advice has not been relevant to our situation. The constant refrain is: fly home.
\n\u201cBut what about the yacht\u201d, we ask? \u201cWe can\u2019t just leave it to sink, can we?\u201d
\n\u201cOh yeah, well you need to stay in the Maldives then.\u201d
\n\u201cYes, but we\u2019re being warned by the Maldives that they may ask us to leave imminently. What then?\u201d
\n\u201cYou need to have a plan in place in case you can\u2019t stay.\u201d
\n\u201cThat\u2019s why we contacted you. Can you liaise with the authorities in Malaysia or Thailand about our situation?\u201d
\n\u201cNo, their borders are closed, and we cannot challenge their laws. That\u2019s not our role here.\u201d
\nAnd round and round we go.
\nA new reality
\nWhen we first started considering our options, we imagined it was just a case of waiting out a few months, and then we\u2019d be able to resume our circumnavigation. Now we\u2019re not so sure.
\nMalaysia or Thailand are definitely the best choice for us if we think it\u2019s going to take a year or two for normal border crossings to resume. And if we can\u2019t get in there, then finding a way to get back to Australia with or without the boat is the fall-back.
\nOn the other hand, if we thought normal cruising could resume in the next few months, we\u2019d regret heading back east, only to have to retrace our steps.
\nSo our decision (if we have the luxury of making it ourselves) is really all about one question alone: will normal cruising resume later this year, early next year, or some time later than that? Obviously we have insufficient data to answer that with any confidence right now. It will involve a guess and a gamble whenever we have to choose, but the later we can make that decision the better our data will be.
\nSince this article was first published (June 11th), Jennifer and Peter left the Maldives on July 11 and are currently en-route to the Seychelles. You can follow their ongoing adventures on their blog Sailing Steel Sapphire.
\nThe post Locked out and locked in: World cruisers share their COVID-19 sailing dilemmas appeared first on Yachting World.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
When countries locked down because of COVID-19, thousands of cruisers were stranded. We hear some of their storiesJennifer and Peter Bernard’s yacht Steel Sapphire moored at Uligan, Maldives. Photo: Peter BernardWhen the world abruptly locked down in March, many cruisers … <\/p>\n