Water ballast is no longer the preserve of ocean racing yachts, it can now be found on performance cruisers and smaller racing boats. Pip Hare shares her top tips for using itThe JPK 1030 features transfer pipe and inspection hatches. Photo: Jean-Marie LioNo two water ballast systems seem to be the same, but the principles for use and troubleshooting remain the same. Here are some guidelines for success.
\nFilling ballast
\nThe ballast is filled via a scoop in the bottom of the boat, which is like a \u2018reverse snorkel\u2019. The snorkel is pushed down with the hole forward to fill the ballast, when the hole is facing aft the tanks can empty. To seal the system the scoop is retracted into the hull, leaving a flush finish.
\nA single scoop will be situated on the centreline, while twin scoops are placed outboard, so the leeward scoop must always be used for filling. When the scoop is pushed down, providing water is moving over the hull it will start to fire water into the boat. Filling can be achieved through continued forwards motion although this can take a lot of time so a pump is often used to accelerate the process.
\nBefore pushing down the scoop, ensure all valves are in the correct position \u2013 this takes concentration if you\u2019re not familiar with the system. Check:
\nValve to leeward scoop is open.
\nValves to leeward tanks are shut.
\nValves to water pump is open.
\nValves out of water pump are either directing towards windward tanks, or open on windward and closed on the leeward side.
\nCorrect windward tanks are selected \u2013 you can fill multiple tanks at the same time.
\nOnce the valves are in the correct position push the scoop down then turn on the ballast pump. Once water is overflowing from the breathers on deck, first close the tank valves, then shut off the pump and retract the scoop.
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Airlocks
\nIf you\u2019ve been running the ballast pump but the tanks are not filling then look for air in the system. Airlocks are a common problem with a pump and can be tricky to remove. Start by identifying where the lock is; transparent pipes are helpful. Then your objective is to flood that part of the pipe.
\nEvery system will be different but things that can work include turning off the pump, rotating the scoop aft to empty for a few seconds, then face it forward and turn on the pump again. Or try changing the angle of heel to flatten the boat momentarily.
\nIf all else fails, changing tack but leaving whatever ballast you have on the same side might shift the air. Tack, then tack back and try the whole process again.
\nTransferring ballast
\nAny manoeuvre involving transferring ballast is going to take time and it\u2019s important to factor this into your planning and make sure you have enough \u2018runway\u2019 to complete your manoeuvre. For example, if you know it takes 140 seconds to drop the ballast and you\u2019re sailing upwind at eight knots you\u2019ll need one third of a mile to complete the tack from the moment you open the valves.
\nUse the time it takes for the ballast to transfer to get set up on deck for tacking and to move the stack to leeward (if allowed). Remember the trim of the boat will change while the ballast drops, so ease the mainsheet or traveller to control excess heel and feather the boat into gusts.
\nThe process for transferring ballast is simple:
\nCheck scoops are retracted and valves closed.
\nOpen leeward tank valves, open transfer valves, open windward tank valves.
\nOnce all water has transferred, close all valves.
\nThe most common mistake is to close the valves and tack before all the water has run down. Sight glasses can help but they often don\u2019t go to the bottom of the tank. Try putting your ear close to the windward transfer pipe, you should be able to hear water running through; if there\u2019s no sound then the tank is empty. Water will rush out of the deck breathers on the leeward side but this may happen before the windward side is empty.
\nAlways check the leeward side after a manoeuvre and empty out any water that\u2019s left. Expect to top up the windward side over time.
\nDeck-mounted control rods can open or close the ballast transfer valves. Photo: Jean-Marie Liot
\nDropping the ballast
\nThere are no tricks to emptying the ballast, other than adding a little extra heel towards the end of the process. The routine is:
\nPush the leeward scoop down and turn it to face aft.
\nDouble check leeward tank valves are closed.
\nSelect the tank you wish to empty and open all valves between that tank and the scoop.
\nWhen finished close the valves and retract the scoop.
\nManagement and maintenance tips
\nPut luminous tape on the scoops so you can easily see which way they\u2019re facing in the dark.
\nCheck inspection hatches and seals regularly. These hatches are a constant pain and expect them to leak. If going on a longer voyage, then take plenty of spare hatch seals and a couple of spare hatches.
\nTry very hard not to step on ballast pipes or valves.
\nCheck both tank levels regularly. It\u2019s not uncommon to lose water from the windward tank or for the leeward tank to start to fill over time.
\nCheck all valves, particularly gate valves, are closing fully and also check the leeward deck breathers are not letting water into the tanks \u2013 which can happen if sailing with the rail constantly underwater or if the breathers are damaged.
\nFirst published in the May 2020 edition of Yachting World.
\nThe post Pip Hare\u2019s sailing masterclass: How to make the most of a water ballast system appeared first on Yachting World.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Water ballast is no longer the preserve of ocean racing yachts, it can now be found on performance cruisers and smaller racing boats. Pip Hare shares her top tips for using itThe JPK 1030 features transfer pipe and inspection hatches. … <\/p>\n